Sunday Fact Fest, Episode 04: Robin's right. Some Louisville (and SoIN) restaurants are not taking the COVID-19 pandemic as seriously as they should."

The link:

Robin Garr’s Taj Palace review at LEO: Great food and pandemic precautions, by me at Food & Dining Magazine.

My Saturday morning post at Food & Dining Magazine came about because Robin Garr did something that writers should strive always to do. His words at LEO Weekly stood me up, slapped me down, and said to me what needed to be said.

Restaurant and bar owners who aren't tasking the pandemic seriously are helping to put others at risk.

The majority of media mavens covering the restaurant and bar industry aren't holding them accountable, including me. Maybe it's time for this to change; I'm not sure it even matters given the culture of abject denial hereabouts, but what I know is that denial can only make it worse. What I can do about it as just one person isn't yet clear to me. In the meantime, it makes me even more grateful to work for people who GET IT.

My words:

 ... Billy Joel was right; honesty is such a lonely word, inside or outside “the business.” Speaking as one who owned a restaurant and brewery for 25 years, your peers function as a professional family. We stay together, and we take care of our own. There are times when some of one’s brothers and sisters err, and the understandable instinct is to keep it in the family. I’ve done so in the past, and on some occasions, I’ve come to regret it. Telling the truth might have forestalled subsequent, larger problems for everyone.

Little white lies, fudging, averting the gaze, looking the other way? They’re incompatible with the duties of journalists, analysts and reviewers, for whom credibility is dependent on being truthful. It doesn’t mean click bait, cultivating confrontation or trolling, although there might be occasional heated discussions with the folks who sell advertising.

That’s where experience comes to the fore; been there, seen that, able to synthesize information, and capable of saying what needs to be said – factually, sans hyperbole. It’s neither calling out, nor cancel culture. It’s very much about rewarding the positive performers, not the negative deniers.

I’ll shut up now. Kudos to Taj Palace, a restaurant I’ve yet to patronize but intend to visit soon for carryout, now that Robin has explained to me exactly what I need to know: “Taj Palace takes tasty Indian fare and pandemic safety seriously.”

Robin's words:

There’s no way to put this but bluntly: I don’t think some Louisville restaurants are taking the COVID-19 pandemic as seriously as they should. Why the worry?

You probably saw the news item about 11 Louisville businesses that got inspection blasts from Metro Public Health & Wellness over the Fourth of July weekend for failing to follow COVID-19 safety guidelines.

This matters: When I’m deciding where to dine during this pandemic, I want to have confidence that the restaurant’s management doesn’t slack off on health and safety.

BEER WITH A SOCIALIST: An issue with LEO Weekly's Beer Issue, and a good review for Pints & Union.

The Great American Beer Festival unspools this weekend, and anyone who's anyone in beer circles is out there in Denver, pounding the new generation of Chantilly Cream Custard Stouts.

Meanwhile, I'm right here in Nawbany, getting back to where I once belonged. If I had my druthers I'd be in Europe, not Colorado. In other words, my condition is perfectly scattershot, and therefore normal.

This week's Louisville Eccentric Observer (LEO) is the annual Beer Issue, with an excellent cover story about women who brew.

What's more, our local alternative weekly has started collating its beer news items in one spot.

LEO has a new web page devoted to all things local beer. Our brewery guide, past Beer Issue stories, an archive of I'd Tap That... Beer columns and the latest season picks.

This is helpful, although I'd like to see a new beer column devoted to classicist ruminations on a theme of comfort beer. Then again, edgy youthful writers probably aren't as well versed in such matters.

Speaking of comfort, it's pure joy to see so many of free-lancer Kevin Gibson's beer bylines collected in one place amid LEO's new beer bullpen. Kevin gets the facts right, and he's also been known to quaff the occasional sample for the sake of accuracy.

Concurrently, I must say that LEO's Big Brewery List is somewhat confused -- and Kevin had nothing to do with it.

The Louisville region, including Southern Indiana, has 21 breweries, including 19 locally-owned breweries.

Flat12 in Jeffersonville appears in the list, and Gordon Biersch does not, except that Flat12 is just as non-locally owned as Biersch; however, in terms of actually brewing beer in a physical location, Biersch is more local than Flat12.

That's because Flat12's beers are brewed in Indianapolis, while all of Biersch's beers are brewed at its Louisville location. As proof, here's the first paragraph of Kevin's cover story.

The two men were enjoying the hefeweizen beer that Maggie Bray had brewed as assistant brewer at Gordon-Biersch — and they had questions about it… but not for her.

Let's see.

Flat12 doesn't brew in Jeffersonville, and it's somehow still local. Biersch does brew in Louisville, and it isn't. Flat12 seems always to get this sort of free pass, and it should not. Flat12 accepted economic development incentives to brew in Jeffersonville, and never did. Were these incentives refunded? At the end of the day, Flat12 in Jeffersonville is a tap room, not a brewery -- and coverage should reflect this simple fact.

Finally, what's the 21st (omitted) brewer? Is it those guys in the Oxmoor Mall? Well, doesn't BJ's import its beer in kegs from production central, just like Flat12? It's a taproom, not a brewery -- just like Flat12.

This brings me to an undisputed highlight of the current issue. Robin Garr captures the Pints&union vibe quite well.

Good beer, food boost Pints & Union’s cozy pub vibe, by Robin Garr (LEO)

Every now and then, a new local place to eat and drink makes me exceptionally happy. Sure, I’m always glad to see any new eatery come to town. But, now and then, a fresh arrival delivers such pleasure in its food, drink and mood that it makes me jump up and down in delight.

Consider, if you will, Pints & Union in downtown New Albany, the utterly lovable restaurant … er, no, beer bar? … um, no, not that, nor a brewpub either. It’s a public house, a European-style pub, then, built into the beautifully renovated shell of an 1880s-era general store that later served as a neighborhood saloon.

In an age when most restaurants seem rigged for noise, Pints & Union is… well, not quiet, but tuned for sociability, with soft folk music in the background that’s loud enough to hear but not enough to dampen conversation. What’s more, there’s nary a television in the place. Stop, take your eyes from the screen and turn them to the people at your table. Don’t feel chatty? Grab a book from the extensive collection, or settle down with a friend for checkers, chess or a board game.

Pints & Union takes its beer seriously, without taking it snobbishly ...

Much appreciated. Now if you'll excuse me, it's back to work.

More ink for The Exchange, and a bonus Pop Up preview.

No one goes to The Exchange any more -- it's too damned crowded. In fact, just yesterday I steered a small party Ian's way because what they wanted in terms of spirits, we couldn't do at BSB. To follow: A fresh review, and the press release for a non-beer "pop up". Maybe next time, it can be with beer ... wink wink, nudge nudge ...

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Robin Garr reviews The Exchange pub + kitchen ... " I’d rate it in the region’s top tier of gastro-pubbish eateries. It would be a standout whether it’s in New Albany, NuLu, Frankfort Avenue or Bardstown Road."

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Italian Pop Up coming to New Albany: The Exchange pub + kitchen to host Italian Pop Up Restaurant

The Exchange pub + kitchen will be hosting an its first pop up restaurant next Tuesday night, February 2, 2014 on the mezzanine level of The Exchange. The private space will be transformed into Alla Buona Derrata, which translates to “The Good Stuff.” This will be a one night only event with limited seating available. The evening will featuring a five course dining experience, focusing on rustic italian fare, prepared by Executive Chef Robert Temple and his culinary team. An optional wine and cocktail pairing will also be available for an additional $25 per person. Tickets for Alla Buona Derrata will be available by reservation only.

“I am extremely excited about this concept. We have a beautiful space on the mezzanine level above The Exchange pub + kitchen that we get to showcase to our guests in a completely different manner. As a restauranteur, I get the opportunity to create, design, and develop an exciting new concept for one evening only. It's a small cozy space, with only 6-8 tables and the bar for seating. It also gives Chef and his culinary team an opportunity to get even more creative and think outside of their normal comfort zone, “ says Owner Ian Hall.

To make reservations for Alla Buona Derrata, please 812.948.6501 and reference "Italian pop up" or send an email to info@exchageforfood.com. First seating begins at 5:30 p.m. For more information about The Exchange pub + kitchen, please visit our website at http://www.exchangeforfood.com, or contact us at (812) 948.6501.

Menu to be as follows.

ALLA BUONA DERRATA "the good stuff"

Antipasti

peperoni sott'aceto, cavolfiore al forno con pancetta e olive verde, caccio roma
pickled peppers, toasted cauliflower with pancetta and green olives,
italian sheeps milk cheese from the roman countryside

Primo
First

Raviolo al Uovo
ricotta fresca, tartufo bianco, burro rosolato, balsamico, cicoria
egg raviolo, fresh ricotta, white truffle, brown butter, balsamic vinegar, chicory

Risotto alla Toscana
salsiccia, finocchio, funghi secchi, parmigianio
arborio rice, sausage, fennel, dried mushrooms, parmesan

Intermezzo

Sorbetto ai frutti di bosco
mixed berry sorbet

IL Secondo
Mains

Braciole Frittelle di Rapini
bistecca brasato, marinara, parmigiano
braised flank steak in tomato sauce

Baccala alla Veneta Napoletana
acciughe, latte, polenta
italian salt cod, polenta, anchovies and milk

Involtini di Melanzane
sugo all'arrabbiata, parmigiano, ricotta
ricotta stuffed eggplant in spicy tomato sauce

Contorno
Sides

Frittelle di rapini
broccoli rabe cakes

Peperoni fritti ala Napoletana
fried peppers from Naples

Verdure alla griglia
grilled vegetables

Dolce

Budino di Rocotta
ricotta cheesecake

Panna Cotta al Cioccolato
chocolate cream pudding

An excellent review of Louis Le Français by Robin Garr includes French language lessons.

For my next amazing trick, I will convince Louis that there is such a thing as good beer from France; namely, Bieres de Garde. If I achieve this, it really WILL be amazing. The man is seriously gifted, but just doesn't really "get" beer. That's okay; let's hope his restaurant has a long life span, affording me enough time to gradually wear him down.

It bodes well that Robin Garr favorably compares Louis Le Français with Le Relais, the Louisville gold standard. In doing so, he's recommending downtown New Albany for dining. Priceless.

Learn your French tastefully at New Albany’s Louis Le Français, by Robin Garr (LEO Weekly)

All right, boys and girls, it’s time for our French lesson! First, let’s review: “Bonjour” ... “Merci!” ... “S’il vous plaît” ... “Je voudrais un verre de vin rouge.” Very good!

Now, let’s learn two important food words. Repeat after me:

“Cassoulet.” Draw it out, warm and rich, just like the hearty dish itself, “Cahs-soo-lay.”

Louis Le Français
133 E. Market St., New Albany
812-944-1222
louisthefrenchman.com

Robin Garr on Cincinnati Chili.

In my world, chili always has been an omnibus concept. There needs to be chili powder in it, but like goulash (paprika) or borscht (beets), there is no end to creative regional and personal variations springing from the basic concept.

I'd never experienced Cincinnati-style chili until I was in my late twenties, working in downtown Louisville within range of a long-departed Gold Star outlet. While everyone else argues about meat, beans, spaghetti and other nebulous orthodoxies, I merely opt for the Cincinnati version and am quite happy.

Previously, I shared my recipe for Vegetarian Cincinnati Chili, which is a monthly household favorite. Earlier in the week, Robin Garr wrote about this culinary art form at his Eat.Feed.Love.Live. blog. He links to a recipe I might have to try ... with veggie ground beef substitute. That's because as an omnivore, I inhabit a (muchly) vegetarian domicile; when I want Cincy chili with meat and cannot make it to Ohio, there's room for an exception to my chain restaurant standards (it's all about shift) and visit the Skyline outlet in front of Louisville's Mid City Mall.

Cincinnati chili: No hating, please!

... From a food anthropology standpoint, it may help to recognize that this is just another strain of immigrant cuisine working its way into the American melting pot.

"New Albany is Louisville's best borough."

Earlier this week, I was delighted to pass along Robin Garr's fine review of the Exchange pub + kitchen.

Another stellar review of Exchange pub + kitchen, this time in LEO Weekly.

Given the antipathy to independent small business regularly exhibited by certain of the News and 'Bune's largely unsupervised reporters, do you ever wonder where they eat?

Druthers?

Meanwhile, Louisville media has been taking notice of downtown New Albany's expanding restaurant scene. Congratulations to Ian, Rick and everyone at the Exchange, which collectively is helping us all to step up our games.

Typically, Robin posts his reviews and columns on the Louisville Restaurants Forum for discussion. Following is a comment by Shane Campbell that illustrates downtown New Albany's higher profile in metro food-think circles. On the same forum thread, Ryan Rogers of Feast BBQ took this sentiment one justifiable step further:

"New Albany is Louisville's best borough." 

Perhaps as someone who is not "from here," Ryan sees what natives sometimes miss: All New Albany has to fear, whether the topic is food, drink, complete streets or downtown housing, is the city's own heritage of low self-esteem -- the same old "can't do" melancholy, where "can do" spirit might just send a few of the demons running for cover. It isn't about who gets credit. It's about who does something. That's why I'm proud to be a part of New Albany's emerging dining and drinking strata. We're achieving.

Who's next?

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Discussion of Robin Garr's Exchange Pub review, by Shane Campbell 

Ian Hall told me Robin had been in, so I decided to wait to say anything about the new Exchange. I've been twice now and honestly, I'm just blown away by the place. While the space is familiar a la Doc Crows and Manny and Merle's in character; it's somehow a level above in my opinion.

I've had many meals at the previous location off Grantline and I'll readily attest to the quality of the cuisine on this menu. I'm pretty sure I noticed that the Ruben is back now, which definitely made me smile, and I'm a huge fan of the braised short ribs.

Donna especially likes the steak frites and we are looking forward to our next visit which will be on the 19th. We stopped by on Saturday around seven. The place was packed and we were told the wait was over an hour. Surprisingly, I was nothing but happy for Ian and his staff at the obvious popularity of the place.

We put our party of six on the list even though we had no intention of waiting that long. Our next quandry was which of the other excellent options within easy walking distance we would select. Two of us had been to Feast recently for lunch and the chicken salad and pulled pork as well as the beer selection were top notch. We also had a bourbon from what must be the most extensive stock this side of the river.

Even though it was a chilly night we reveled in boisterous company shouting out options as we walked over to Market St. We could indulge in the outstanding wood fired pizza, crab cakes, and wine at the River City Winery or fajitas and margaritas at the re-energized La Rosita. I've been dying to give the Frenchman's another go and maybe partake in some more biere de garde. Of course I'm at Bank Street Brewhouse nearly every week and the cask ale they have on, a stoutly hopped wheat if you can believe it, goes down with the best qualities of an IPA and a Hefe.

We ultimately decided to check out Habana Blues, which several of us had been to before but not recently. We were seated immediately and a pitcher of premium Mojitos and the best Cuba Libre ever soon had us congratulating ourselves on our choice. The interior of this place is like an old house with multiple-connected rooms and soaring ceilings. I spotted Todd Antz at a table nearby and went over to see what he was eating. His newest version of the Keg is just around the corner so I figured he was a regular here.

Todd and his table mates shared their recommendations and wished us a good meal. That is what we had all agreed. The service was prompt and the meal was delisciosa. I had Habana Blue's version of the braised short ribs as I was Jonesing for the same at the Exchange. We didn't linger after dinner but started to head over to the Frenchman's for a drink when the phone rang. Our table at the Exchange was ready! We ducked in out of the cold a few minutes later and were seated in a separate room near the front of the restaurant. The VIP section I'm sure!

As we entered, a young man dressed in flannel with an acoustic guitar was tearing up Neil Diamond's "Sweet Caroline"! Of course we all joined in the chorus as good Red Sox fans must. We ordered drinks and deserts and marveled that the place was still slammed. I drank Bell's excellent Smitten Ale paired outrageously with a bowl of Comfy Cow's Coconut ice cream. A match made in heaven!

Ian came over and spoke with us for a while and as we were leaving insisted that we see the second floor room. If there is a better space in the Metro area, I'm not aware of it! Ian and his staff have truly exceeded all expectations with the new restaurant. When I said as much, Ian said he was hurt that I would say so. Ian it was not that I didn't expect great things from you, it was just that my imagination was not equal to what you have achieved!

Another stellar review of Exchange pub + kitchen, this time in LEO Weekly.

Given the antipathy to independent small business regularly exhibited by certain of the News and 'Bune's largely unsupervised reporters, do you ever wonder where they eat?

Druthers?

Meanwhile, Louisville media has been taking notice of downtown New Albany's expanding restaurant scene. Congratulations to Ian, Rick and everyone at the Exchange, which collectively is helping us all to step up our games.

Theory of Relativity is demonstrated at Exchange Pub, by Robin Garr (LEO Weekly)

NA Exchange got a new name when it moved down the New Albany hill: Now it’s The Exchange Pub + Kitchen. It got a new look, which is actually an old look, as it makes creative use of a historic building in New Albany’s rapidly gentrifying downtown. But it didn’t get new food, insists Chef Rick Adams, who swears that the menu he forged at the previous location — including his signature shrimp and grits — hasn’t changed a bit.

Chain, tacky and opposed to human rights? Three strikes, and Chick-fil-A is out.

Robin Garr has it down at his Louisville Restaurants Forum, and my viewpoint is expressed in the title. 

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Chick-Fil-A under fire again

We've had debates before about Chick-Fil-A's overt conservative Christianity prompting the chain to shut down on Sundays, posting signs urging everyone else to refrain from work (and, presumably, attend church) on that day. Okayfine. I find that a little pushy, but agree that it's not strong grounds for a boycott. But now the chain is trending on Twitter and Facebook and the blogosphere again over its owners' strong words against gay marriage - and the revelation that it spends millions of dollars in support of anti-gay organizations.

To me, that changes the equation: I'm even more strongly inclined to withhold my dollars from a situation in which some of them are likely to be channeled directly to organizations like the Marriage & Family Foundation, that has been called a "hate group."

What do you think? Is Chick-Fil-A a no-go zone for you, or do those tasty poultry sliders and waffle fries still call your name?

Dan Cathy, the president and chief operating officer of Chick-fil-A, said in a radio interview this week that same-sex marriage is “inviting God’s judgment on our nation.”

Appearing on “The Ken Coleman Show,” Cathy spoke of his company’s pride in its socially conservative character, but then offered an assessment of same-sex marriage that might lose the popular fast food chain a few customers.

“I think we are inviting God’s judgment on our nation when we shake our fist at him and say, ‘We know better than you as to what constitutes a marriage,’” said Cathy.

“I pray God’s mercy on our generation that has such a prideful, arrogant attitude to think that we would have the audacity to try to redefine what marriage is all about,” he added.

The Huffington Post reports that in 2010 Chick-fil-A, through its WinShape Foundation, donated approximately $2 million to groups that oppose same-sex marriage, most notably giving $1,188,380 to the Marriage & Family Foundation. In 2009 the company also reportedly donated $2 million to such groups.

Cathy is the son of the company’s founder and chairman, Truett Cathy.

The unapologetic social conservatism of Chick-fil-A’s leadership has caused several headline-grabbing brouhahas, including a decision this year by Northeastern University officials not to allow a franchise on the college’s Boston campus.

Read more: http://dailycaller.com/2012/07/18/chick-fil-a-president-gay-marriage-is-inviting-gods-judgment-on-our-nation-audio/#ixzz216MmDBaJ

Also: http://thenewcivilrightsmovement.com/chick-fil-a-has-spent-5-million-trying-to-stop-gay-marriage/discrimination/2012/07/02/42684

Bank Street Brewhouse in today's LEO: "'Cuisine a la bière' defines Chef Josh Lehman’s bill of fare."

I'm pleased and humbled. I appreciate Robin's review, but even more so, I thank him for consistently giving New Albany's emerging downtown restaurant scene a fair shake in his writings. We must not forget that before us came the Bistro New Albany, when Louisvillians first began taking note of what we're capable of achieving here.

Most important are big kudos to the entire BSB staff: You guys indeed rock.

Lots to like about Bank Street Brewhouse, by Robin Garr.

I’ve held off reviewing since Kevin Gibson’s first-rate preview (LEO Weekly, March 25, 2009). Now that brewing is in full operation and Lehman’s evening menu is well established, it’s time to turn my own two thumbs up and say, “Kevin was right.” Bank Street Brewery hits a culinary home run for food and beer and other good things.