Showing posts with label Bavarian Christmas Interlude 2018. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bavarian Christmas Interlude 2018. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 01, 2019

Complete compendium of 2018 travelogues: Porto, Gdansk and Munich.

Diana and I are exceedingly fortunate to have been able to visit Europe three times in 2018. We're very well matched as travel partners, and it's a pure joy. For years I refused to take a phone with me when traveling, but eventually relented, and since 2016 we've been "facebooking" our trips.

Your comments are much appreciated by both of us, and because so many of you have told me that you enjoy the photos, I've taken to arranging them at the blog in the form of travelogues.

Following are the links to our 2018 trips; Munich and Gdansk are in the form of links to "search by label," so just click and scroll. Porto was arranged earlier with all links in one place. Each trip also was accompanied by a prelude of articles of historical and topical interest pertaining to our destination.

I hope you enjoy all these articles, and thanks for reading.

Munich, Germany (and a side trip to Bamberg)
Bavarian Christmas Interlude 2018
Prelude: Munich Tales 2018

Gdansk, Poland
Gdansk Pilgrimage 2018
Prelude: Eight Days of Gdansk

I did it a bit differently last spring.

Porto, Portugal (and a side trip to Madeira)

Your courtesy compendium of links to the "Portugal Trip 2018" and "Focus on Portugal 2018" series.

ON THE AVENUES: As a new year dawns, I’m existentially yours.

ON THE AVENUES: As a new year dawns, I’m existentially yours.

A weekly column by Roger A. Baylor.

In 2019, ON THE AVENUES moves to Tuesday -- unless I change my mind again.

According to the dictionary, an existential crisis is a psychological episode in which a person questions the meaning of their life, and of existence itself.

Okay, but to me the word “episode” is misplaced because it implies an exception to the everyday, and an event occurring rarely or even randomly. I firmly believe that for most of us, an existential crisis is ongoing and everlasting. “Episodes” are those special times when we’re able to ignore this existential condition, and for a short while at least, to enjoy a little peace.

Since you’re probably already jumping to conclusions, kindly heed the advice of Archie Bunker and stifle yourself. I’m not depressed or morose, merely surprised at anyone being so sure about the meaning of life that they’re not questioning their premises every single day spent in it.

For those responding to this provocation with an affirmation of one or the other religious belief systems, thanks but no thanks. I know you mean well – now please, vacate my internet porch.

However, now that YOU’VE brought up religion, and not li'l ol' heretical me, here’s a brief excerpt from a book I recently read: To Hell and Back: Europe, 1914-1949, by Ian Kershaw.

Where a significant threat from the Left posed itself, however, the Churches of both major denominations invariably backed the authority of the state. And the more extreme they perceived the threat to be, the more extreme was the reaction they were prepared to support.

Nowhere was the reaction more extreme than in Germany. Here, the Protestant Church – actually divided doctrinally and regionally but in its various forms nominally embracing more than two-thirds of the German population – had since Martin Luther’s time seen itself as closely aligned with state authority. The revolution of 1918, the removal of the Kaiser and the new democracy that replaced the monarchy brought widespread dismay in Church circles. The perceived ‘crisis of faith’ (Glaubenskrise) promoted hopes of the restoration of the monarchy or a new form of state leadership that would overcome Germany’s moral as well as political and economic plight.

A true leader was needed, in the eyes of many members of the Protestant clergy. He would be, in the words of one Protestant theologian writing in 1932, a ‘true statesman’ (as opposed to the mere ‘politicians’ of the Weimar Republic) who holds ‘war and peace in his hand and communes with God’. In line with such thinking, Hitler’s takeover of power in 1933 was widely seen by Protestant clergy as the start of a national reawakening that would inspire a revival of faith. There was even a Nazified wing of the Protestant Church. The ‘German Christians” rejected the Old Testament as Jewish and took pride in being ‘the stormtroopers of Jesus Christ’. Such extremes, the preserve of a minority of the clergy (though with substantial support in some areas), were rejected, however, by most Protestants, whose ideas of a revival of faith were for the most part both doctrinally and organizationally conservative.

Imagine it: an unfettered strongman boasting pure power, as better to interpret the prince of peace’s musings. Not that I’m suggesting something like this could ever “happen here” – wink wink, nudge nudge.

Just the same, be still my quivering middle finger!

--

If travel doesn’t induce a frenzied whiplash spate of good, hard thinking, then chances are you’re doing it wrong. Even if your holiday of choice is on the beach at a tequila-soaked resort in Cancun, there should be something there to ignite the synapses.

If not, why bother going away in the first place?

For me, books and travel collided during the fourth quarter of 2018, combining to create the feel of a graduate-level history course, albeit without the obligation of writing a term paper.

Except for today's column, of course.

In October, I read The Tin Drum by Gunter Grass. It’s a novel, although much of the story takes place in pre-WWII Danzig (subsequently called Gdansk), and the author masterfully evokes a place and time on the verge of being lost forever.

November brought our pilgrimage to the Gdansk of today, with visits to the Museum of the Second World War and the European Solidarity Centre. I was deeply moved by both, and they contributed to a broader understanding of present-day Polish culture and politics.

Upon returning stateside, still in November, there were midterm election results to interpret and Kershaw’s text to begin reading. I finished it prior to embarking for Munich just before Christmas, where Bavaria’s history was revisited against a backdrop of Mexican walls, government shutdowns and Trumpolini’s latest Twitter meltdowns.

It was intense, to say the least. Past seemed to meet the present, and the process proved exhilarating and exhausting in equal measure.

The blurriness went beyond too much exquisite pork and too many full-throttle beers. I’d been bingeing on knowledge, and it made me tired. Perhaps my body and brain are trying to tell me it’s time to read a romance novel – with a side of steamed vegetables, a six pack of ice-cold Miller Lite, and lots of television.

But then again, no. These milquetoast habits might make me depressed and morose.

---

Ironically, the first use of the term “existential crisis” was recorded during the 1930s, as it became increasingly clear to reasonable people that Nazism in Germany posed a very real threat to the very existence of Jews, Slavs, gays, the Roma, developmentally disabled persons and others landing outside the addled perimeter of Hitler’s crackpot racial theories.

Eight decades later, these tidbits of lunacy are enjoying a renaissance among mouth-breathing devotees of a president who’s never met a book he actually read.

But as Kershaw observes, science isn’t always the cure for stupidity. It’s important to remember that Hitlerian doctrines of racial purity flowed quite naturally from seemingly legitimate doctrines which had been venerated by polite society in Europe and America prior to the Great War, in particular the “science” of eugenics:

(Eugenics was) the science of improving a human population by controlled breeding to increase the occurrence of desirable heritable characteristics. Developed largely by Francis Galton as a method of improving the human race, it fell into disfavor only after the perversion of its doctrines by the Nazis.

Not to exclude something almost as bad, phrenology: "The detailed study of the shape and size of the cranium as a supposed indication of character and mental abilities."

The terms ‘highbrow’ and ‘lowbrow’ come from phrenology, the nineteenth-century science of regarding the shape of the skull as a key to intelligence. A ‘high’ forehead meant intelligence; a ‘low’ one meant stupidity. Phrenology thrived as a popular science in the late nineteenth century and led eventually to the racial theories of the Nazis, for whom the Jewish cranium and pale, sunken face were clear indications of Jewish racial inferiority.”

Our days in Munich in December were a time to reflect on all these themes of 20th-century history, to observe how much (and how little) the city has changed since my first visits in the late 1980s, and to ponder certain existential questions – as opposed to crises, strictly speaking.

In the 1980s, World War II was only forty-odd years removed. These days, living memories of the era are confined to a fast receding generation of 90-year-olds. What we’re witnessing in Brexit, Trump and the rise of authoritarianism around the world, whether we approve or not, is the final dissolution of the post-war international order. It lasted a scant 70 years, which isn’t much of a run by the standards of the Dark Ages or Pax Romana.

The difference: this is the one we’re living through, if not grasping particularly well. Maybe it’s always been like that. Not everyone alive today has time to think about history, or cares to learn more about the past. However, it might be helpful to think more about the real world and less about those diversions intended by the architects of capital accumulation to keep us numbly quiescent.

In the 2012 book Thinking the Twentieth Century, the late historian Tony Judt and his co-writer Timothy Snyder discussed the aftermath of the 2008 financial crisis, and Judt made a point that I think covers more ground than he intended.

The vast majority of human beings today are simply not competent to protect their own interests.

Granted, the context of Judt’s remark was financial decision-making. Before the modern advent of easy consumer credit, it was so difficult for ordinary people to borrow that they simply couldn’t, and were confined to the bare necessities of life. There were other problems then as now, but a crushing burden of personal debt tended to be avoided simply because society kept it off-limits to ordinary people -- prior to concluding it was an ideal way to maintain control.

I believe Judt’s words apply to other aspects of contemporary life. It might help to know that our food doesn’t come from Kroger, but through it, and when you rail against multinational corporate tyranny and still take the kids to Disney World … well, you know, debt isn’t the only potential entrapment. Governing one’s life by pervasive fantasy is an impediment to activism, too.

I regularly take a few days off from competitive drinking, and these are the times when my existential crises exit the carefully curated lock box and creep back into view.

After a day or two of detox, I notice myself becoming more organized and efficient, like my mother, who was obsessively such. By the third or fourth day, clarity and perception have re-emerged to such a disturbing extent that I can look around me and see this place for exactly what it is: Nawbany as a grassroots component of L’America, both right here in broad daylight, the flaws of neither in any way capable of being cloaked.

My friends, that’s an existential crisis – and that’s also why I always crawl back into the beer mug, where it's safe.

---

Recent columns:

December 29: ON THE AVENUES: Another year older and deeper in debt, so let's doo-doo it all over again.

December 20: ON THE AVENUES: Truth, lies, music, and a trick of the Christmas tale (2018 Remix).

December 14: A joyful noise? The six most-read ON THE AVENUES columns of 2018.

December 6: ON THE AVENUES: Straight tickets, unsociable media and whether Democrats should rally around Gahan's gallows pole.

Monday, December 24, 2018

Bavarian Christmas Interlude 2018, Monday: 39 up, 39 down. What's next?


Diana and I visited Bavaria (Munich and Bamberg) just before Christmas. Prior to departure, there was a series entitled Munich Tales 2018. This is the last of seven installments summarizing what we did, saw, ate and drank. They're being back-dated to the day we were there.

Previously: Cool Paulaner and some delicious döner kebap.

---

A few random thoughts to close this series ...

On Monday morning we rose, gathered our belongings and made the short walk to the Hauptbahnhof, where the automated machine disgorged two tickets for the S-Bahn to the airport. Departure rituals are hard, and I always feel conflicting emotions when it comes time to leave Europe and return home.

Our short trip to Munich in December was the 39th visit to Europe for me, with the first one occurring in 1985. That's easily north of $150,000 invested on a return of absolutely nothing  -- apart from memories and experience, which are priceless. I have no regrets whatever.

Being in Munich for the first time in 1985 had lots more to do with drinking, as opposed to thinking. In those days most of what we assumed about planetary beer culture revolved around a dead certainty that America had been Bavaria at one time in terms of beer & bratwurst, then somehow lost its mojo after Prohibition amid a sea of lightweight swill and fast food chains.

Of course, the 33 years of my life elapsing since then have been devoted to finally grasping that we always had been guilty of oversimplification. Germans and other immigrants came to America and kept some of their traditions intact, but in a metaphysical sense they were no longer German (or Vietnamese, or Indian). They were American, and being American was something different.

Returning to Munich in 2018 was a chance to see how those beer traditions were holding up there -- not in America. The most honest answer is they are, except when they're not. There'll probably come a time when I'll step into a Munich beer hall and (a) see televised sports, (b) order an India Pale Ale, and (c) eat Buffalo wings. I hope not, but it's likely.

And when it happens, I'll probably cry. They won't be tears of joy.

Happily we're not there yet, and ultimately I don't know what any of it means. I'm grateful that we had the chance to go to Munich, especially during the Christmas season, because it seems less commercialized than the way we do it -- outdoor markets notwithstanding, and anyway, those markets are about drinking and socializing as much as anything else.

Our sole evening in Bamberg served to reinforce a truth of which I've been aware for quite some time: If either of us ever won the lottery, or inherited vast wealth, there'd be a cloud of dust from which we'd emerge in Bamberg to stay.

Although Diana might want to go to the United Kingdom, and that's fine; naturally Belgium and Netherlands would be marvelous, and there's always Copenhagen. But it's surely too late for me to be an expatriate, and I'm not sure what I think of this.

The lead-in selfie was taken at the Murphy's theme pub inside Schiphol (Amsterdam), where we changed for the flight home to Detroit. Come to think of it, Ireland would be good for this expatriate-minded Nawbanian, too.

Sunday, December 23, 2018

Bavarian Christmas Interlude 2018, Sunday: Winding down with a cool Paulaner and some delicious döner kebap.

Christmas at Paulaner Nockherberg.

Diana and I visited Bavaria (Munich and Bamberg) just before Christmas. Prior to departure, there was a series entitled Munich Tales 2018. This is the sixth of seven installments summarizing what we did, saw, ate and drank. They're being back-dated to the day we were there.

Previously: English Garden, Chinese Tower, Bavarian Christmas market, among others.
Next: Time to go home, alas.


The weather forecast for Sunday, our last day in Munich, was for steady rain by late afternoon. We reckoned on a half day of sight seeing if we were lucky, then a return to the hotel for a casual evening. Having slept in, our start came late ... at lunch.

Munich always has been about the major brewers whose presence has done so much to make the city a beer lover's pilgrimage site.

Paulaner and Hacker-Pschorr merged a long time ago, and the received wisdom nowadays is that almost all the beer for both breweries is brewed at the Hacker-Pschorr facility, with the exception of what amounts to a brewpub-sized system at Paulaner's Nockherberg restaurant and beer garden.

The name of the Nockherberg and two nearby streets can be traced back to the banking family Nockher. The family had settled in Munich in the 18th century and built a summer house on the eastern Isar heights in 1789, the so-called ‘Nockher palace’. It was located on the street known today as 'Am Nockherberg'.

From the U-Bahn station we walked up the hill and through a serpentine park area with fine views of Munich's central spires to the north.

And bicycles.


I can't remember whether my previous visit to Nockherberg came in 1995 or 1997, but it definitely was during Starkbierzeit (strong beer time) in March. I can remember drinking a liter Mass of Salvator, Paulaner's signature Doppelbock, and thinking this was an incredible feat owing to the 7.9% alcoholic strength. Gravity Head, as well as hundreds of 10% - 12% specialties, came to the vicinity of my beer appreciation somewhat later, although in fairness, we never drank beers like those from liter mugs.

At any rate, a fire in 1999 completely destroyed Paulaner's old, dark beer hall on Nockherberg, and it was rebuilt along more modern lines, then again remodeled a few years ago. The contemporary feel is of a classic Munich brewery merged with a "craft beer" standard brew/gastropub, with a bright and airy interior ambiance featuring almost Scandinavian furnishings and lighter shades of woodwork. The old-school beer garden is intact, just outside.

Overall it's an interesting reinterpretation of tradition -- and the herring salad was very good.


Diana again opted for Currywurst, this time of a more gourmet variety. It's hard to resist it, whether served as street food or in a sit-down setting.


From the maker of Salvator comes this seasonal Helles Bock, clocking in at a deceptive 10% abv, and delicious. Note the quarter-liter pour, a far cry from those big boy tankards of old.


A Radler is a bicyclist, and the beer mixture of the same name is familiar to most of us by now. Perhaps less obvious are Russ and Cola Weizen.


After lunch we opted for a final glimpse of the Marienplatz Christmas market. I was struck by an example of exterior artwork on a building, glimpsed along the way.




The rain was belated, but once it started there was no stopping. It still was raining on Monday morning when we rose to make our airport commute. On Sunday evening, we stayed close to the hotel. It had a Euro coin operated bottled beer vending machine in the lobby, and there were several "take away" döner kebab (or kebap) restaurants in the vicinity.

It’s nearly impossible to visit Germany and not eat Currywurst or Bratwurst, two ubiquitous sausage dishes. But regardless of the sausage’s fame, it seems that Germans can’t get enough of the döner kebab.

The nation of 82 million people consumes two million kebabs a day, according to Gürsel Ülber, spokesman for the Association of Turkish Döner Producers in Europe (ATDiD). Safe to say, the thinly sliced meat – cooked on a vertical spit, wrapped in pita or flatbread and topped with salad – overrules the sausage-duo as a preferred fast-food option; a prominent symbol of the cultural and economic influence of Turkish immigration on German society.


I believe the one I chose is called Bistro Lavash, and there were plenty of Turkish specialties at the steam table, in addition to the ubiquitous döner. What I liked most about the eatery was its multicultural clientele; rather like tacos in America, döner creates level playing fields, especially for those who've been drinking.

It's so very sad approaching the end of an excursion ...

Saturday, December 22, 2018

Bavarian Christmas Interlude 2018, Saturday: English Garden, Chinese Tower, Bavarian Christmas market, more beer, and just a little bit of food.


Diana and I visited Bavaria (Munich and Bamberg) just before Christmas. Prior to departure, there was a series entitled Munich Tales 2018. This is the fifth of seven installments summarizing what we did, saw, ate and drank. They're being back-dated to the day we were there.

Previously: EuroLeague basketball game between Bayern München and Real Madrid.
Next: Wrapping it up with a visit to Paulaner Nockherberg.


Through the end of our stay, rain was predicted. It held off on Saturday, and so we chose to roam in mechanized fashion, as opposed to Tuesday's and Wednesday's long walks. It was decided to enhance our mobility on Saturday by purchasing a day pass on public transit. Until midnight, the two of us would be able to ride to our heart's content for slightly less than $20.

Boarding a convenient bus, we set off for Englische (or Englischer) Garten, where I'd last set foot in 1989.

The Englische Garten (“English Garden”) is one of the largest urban parks in the world. The layout has undergone constant change throughout the centuries as new buildings and green spaces were added time and again.

It all started in 1789 when Elector Carl Theodor ordered that a public park be established along the Isar River. He put the project in the hands of the Briton Benjamin Thompson, who worked at the time for the Bavarian Army. The park was given the name Englische Garten because it was laid out in the style of an English country park.

Today the Englische Garten offers numerous leisure time activities. Cyclists and joggers train on the 78-kilometer-long (48.5 miles) network of paths, and amateur soccer players meet on the fields for recreational games. A beautiful vista of the city if offered by the Monopteros, which was added to the park landscape along with the hill in 1836.

I remember the beer garden very well, and recall it serving Löwenbräu in those days.

With 7,000 spots, the beer garden in the Englische Garten, right by the Chinese Tower, is Munich’s second largest. This distinctive pagoda is 25 meters (approx. 75 feet) high and is based on a design from 1789. The tower has burned down several times over the years, but each time it has been rebuilt true to the design of the original.

Although we knew there was a Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas market) at the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower), expectations were low -- and yet it was our favorite.


A Munich Christmas Market at the Chinese Tower
, by Helen Page

The Chinesischer Turm Weihnachtsmarkt (Chinese Tower Christmas Market) is an unusual name for a German Christmas Market and it is so called because in the middle of the market grounds stands a giant Chinese pagoda. The 25-metre high wooden Chinese Tower is one of the attractions in Munich’s famous Englischer Garten (English Garden) and, except for the Christmas season, it is also the venue of one of the largest beer gardens in the city ...

 ... Although the Chinese Tower Christmas Market is not well-known to international visitors, it is very popular with locals and we arrive at the market to see streams of cars queueing to get into the carpark. It is quite a busy market and being Sunday, families come to have their lunch here, catch up with friends and relatives and to do some last minute Christmas shopping.

Here's the overview.





That's right: curling.





After an orientation of the market, we walked a 30-minute loop through the garden.








Afterwards, it was lunch time, beginning with a big red bratwurst for me, Currywurst for Diana, and a Hofbräu Hefeweizen each.



Then I noticed the Schupfnudeln.




These are little potato finger dumplings, cooked with sauerkraut and gravy from pork drippings in a enlarged pan, like paella, then topped with grated cheese.

I don't say "OMG" often, but will in this instance. Sated, we caught another bus and worked our way toward the Maximilianeum, a 19th-century behemoth squatting atop the ridge on the right bank of the Isar.


To the rear of the Maximilianeum on Innere Wiener Strasse lies the Hofbräukeller am Wiener Platz. Generally in Bavarian beer-speak, a "Keller" isn't specifically intended to imply a cellar of the sort used to age lager beer. Rather, it's the brewery's beer garden.

Accordingly, that's how we approached the inside -- from the outside, through the beer garden, where men in a tent with heaters were busy drinking beer outdoors.

I didn't take their picture.



This classy, traditionalist's location of the Hofbräu empire is vastly superior to the rowdy, over-touristed Hofbräuhaus nearer the center. My friend Kim Andersen made the recommendation, and he was spot on, as usual. My only regret in this, as with many of the other beer spots we visited, is that it wasn't ideal "beer garden" weather -- because drinking beer outside is one of the undisputed glories of Bavarian beer culture.

Perhaps if we'd brought heaters and a tent.

In due course we made it back to the hotel for afternoon nap time. Later in the evening came the day's final act, and a session at Augustiner Keller, on Arnulfstrasse near the Hauptbahnhof. There was liver dumpling soup and Münchner Schnitzel, which is made with horseradish and mustard prior to the battering.







The Augustiner was huge, packed and festive. I'll always remember that.

Friday, December 21, 2018

Bavarian Christmas Interlude 2018, Friday: Returning to Munich for the EuroLeague basketball game between Bayern München and Real Madrid.



Diana and I visited Bavaria (Munich and Bamberg) just before Christmas. Prior to departure, there was a series entitled Munich Tales 2018. This is the fourth of seven installments summarizing what we did, saw, ate and drank. They're being back-dated to the day we were there.

Previously: A one-night stand with my sweetie in much beloved Bamberg.
Next: The Christmas market at Chinesischen Turm in Munich's Englischer Garten.


Who knew the world-renowned Weyermann malting house had a gift shop? Not this beer lover -- and regrettably, we saw the bus advertisement in route to the train station to leave Bamberg for the return trip to Munich.

Breakfast at the Hotel Nepomuk was a kick.


Sandwiches and beers boarded the train with us. There's nothing better than eating and drinking on a train.



I still enjoy watching a baseball or basketball game every now and then, and while there may or may not be a baseball league in Germany, one thing for certain is it wouldn't be taking place in December. Fortunately ...

New Albany has a pro basketball player right now: Braydon Hobbs, playing in Germany for FC Bayern München.


Once the legendary Steve LaDuke caught wind of our plan to attend the game on the 21st, he contacted Braydon, who arranged the VIP experience for us. I can't thank both of them enough. Unfortunately, Braydon wasn't on the active roster for the game, which was in the EuroLeague, not the Bundesliga (German national league).

Bayern plays in the Audi Dome, a few U-Bahn stops (and a short walk) southwest of the Hauptbahnhof. The arena seats 6,700 for basketball, and if the game against Real Madrid wasn't a sellout, it was close.

Since we seldom indulge in "VIP" anything, it was fun to take advantage of unlimited beer and food before, during and after the game. Appropriately, the evening's chef-driven menu was heavy on Spanish dishes. I hit the Paulaner tap early and often.



The game itself was excellent. The visitors, who perhaps are one of Europe's best clubs, came out smoking in the first half, but Bayern tightened the defense after halftime and fought to within four points at one juncture late in the contest. Real Madrid pulled away in the last two minutes.




Braydon was interviewed in street clothes at halftime.




The halftime band was like Chicago with a female lead singer.





Four days down, only two to go; already I was panting for breath.