Showing posts with label parade. Show all posts
Showing posts with label parade. Show all posts
Thursday, September 17, 2020
From 1999 (new post): Our group tour descends on Poperinge for the hop parade.
Editor's note: This weekend would have been the latest installment of the triennial Poperinge (Belgium) Beer and Hop Festival, but the pandemic postponed it, along with our trip. Consequently I'm living in the past and flooding the blog pages with reruns of past visits.
The first time I ever set foot in the Belgian city of Poperinge was 1998, a brief stop coinciding with my inaugural motorcoach-powered beer tour. There four other such group extravaganzas to follow before I retired from hosting in 2004.
As an aside, my 2004 retirement came in fits and starts. There were two further efforts to field an excursion, but both fell short of the farm-near-me/">minimum in terms of participants. I knew that if these were to continue, I'd have to up the ante in terms of my own performance, and decided to devote the time to the existing business instead.
The 1999 bus journey was the largest of them all, with 30 of us aboard, and one soon discovers that while greater numbers offer an economy of scale in terms of costs, they also reduce the chance of demonstrating the charms of an elusive back street specialty beer bar with only five tables.
In short, compromises are inevitable, and in the case of the 1999 tour, it quickly became clear to me that Poperinge didn't have a hotel capable of housing the group during the time of the triennial Beer and Hop Festival. Consequently, we stayed ten clicks down the road in the larger city of Ieper (Ypres) at a pleasant business traveler-oriented hotel near the industrial park.
For the hop fest itself, Luc Dequidt arranged a package that included group seating on the bleachers for the hop parade and passes into the German-style beer tent. I advised everyone about the local cafe and restaurant options, trusting they'd break up into smaller groups to explore, and they did.
Everyone was told the location of the motor coach and the deadline for returning to it, assuming they wanted a free ride back to Ieper. We had a long trip to Germany the following morning; hangovers could be nursed on the bus, because drivers must take breaks and cannot be worked beyond contractual limits.
I stressed this point. It also was the pre-Uber era, and while mobile phones existed, they were not common. Taxi service was available, if not optimum. Poperinge was, and remains, the last stop on a branch rail line through Ieper, and trains do not run very long into the evening.
Counting heads as we prepared to depart Poperinge, I saw that a few were missing. There was a fifteen-minute grace period, then we left for Ieper. My tour members were adults, and Poperinge a friendly, accommodating place.
What could go wrong?
Morning came, and it seemed everyone was accounted for. However, as I dug into a plate stacked high with the items from a fabulous breakfast buffet, one of the tour members approached me with a request. His son had flown into Brussels the previous day and joined us in Poperinge for parade. I knew Senior and Junior had connected; I ran into them several times while wandering the streets.
What I didn't know is that the son's commute from America to Europe had taken twice as long, sleeplessly, owing to flight cancellations and delays. Too many beers, not enough shut-eye, and perhaps a stray demon; he'd been involved in a bizarre fracas at the beer tent.
Poperinge authorities merely shrugged, scooped, and deposited Junior into the drunk tank for the night, all quite professional and polite, with instructions to his father as to when he'd be released in Poperinge next day -- this being precisely the same time the bus was scheduled to leave from Ieper.
Hence dad's request for a dispensation, and so of course we waited. It was only 45 minutes, and somewhat comical in the end considering the physical condition of the recently incarcerated. I'd planned on charging him a pro-rated fee for transportation, but decided to require that he buy the first round of beers in Germany, which he did.
I digitized just a few of the photos. I'll get around to the remainder someday.
Sunday, October 06, 2019
Poperinge Hop Parade: Now THIS is what I'm talking about.
Thanks, Jeff Gillenwater.
The video depicts highlights of the hops parade in Poperinge, Belgium in 2014. The hops festival there takes place every third year, meaning it's due again in 2020. You'll notice no sirens, police cars, municipal suck trucks, monster rigs, militia jeeps or deafening fire trucks; instead, there are actual humans, many of them walking, some on horseback or in wagons.
Taken as a whole, Poperinge’s hop festival is a recurring delight. This small provincial town possesses a self-image second to none, and the three-day event reflects a much appreciated commitment to local values.
Hop-related events and related revelry take place throughout the festival weekend, but the highlight is the Sunday parade through the tidy streets. The parade actually tells a story, with an accompanying libretto of sorts printed in several languages, periodic chapter markers, and a refreshing absence of commercial considerations.
The story concerns the history of brewing, the history of the hop, and its importance to the Poperinge economy. Onlookers meet the enemies of the hop -- for instance, brightly festooned children as beetles -- and the plant’s friends, other whistling children dressed as birds.
It is delightful. Here are a few links from past parades. Since 1999, I've missed only one of them (2011), and plan are underway for next year.
The 2017 Poperinge Hop Parade, Part One: One must pour the proper foundation for maximum parade enjoyment.
The 2017 Poperinge Hop Parade, Part Two: The procession itself, and where to dine afterward.
2014 Euro Reunion Tour, Day 12.5: The story of hops in parade format.
PRESS RELEASE: "Let’s go to the hops."
Hops are a boy's best friend.
Tuesday, October 03, 2017
The 2017 Poperinge Hop Parade, Part Two: The procession itself, and where to dine afterward.
Poperinge's triennial hop parade seeks to tell the story of the magic cone used in the production of beer, as placed in the historical context of the Westhoek ("west corner") region of Flanders, embracing this vicinity in Belgium as well as a slice of nearby France.
I've long since ceased trying to follow the parade's narrative. Clearly, scores of local children are portraying friends and enemies of the hop; certain insects are bad, but the birds that eat them are good, and so on.
The growing and harvesting cycles are depicted. Adults pretend to be monks and migrant workers. There are floats, brass bands, horses, dogs and even sheep. It is a brightly colored and enthusiastic assemblage, perhaps because it takes place only every third year, providing ample burnout recovery time.
The parade winds through the streets for close to two hours, and these days our chosen vantage point lies near the end of the route. It's the Poussecafé at Ieperstraat 45, a decades-old offshoot of the original Vandecasteele family business, a scrumptious bakery founded right before World War I.
As in 2014, we arrived early for lunch this year, then moved outdoors for front-row seats. When the weather is fair and the Keikoppen (cobblestone heads) of all ages line the streets, the parade is massively entertaining, and frankly has improved over the time I've been watching it. It's great fun, and best accompanied with locally brewed ales: St. Bernardus, Van Eecke and De Plukker, to name only three.
Earlier in the day, we chanced upon Popernicus, the festival's official mascot.
Popernicus appeared again at the head of the gala. Absent any effort to explain, following are photos of the 2017 parade, arranged chronologically.
At parade's end, our most logical destination was the Grote Markt for a final dispensing of sample tokens at "Taste of Westhoek." This achieved, it was time for the evening meal, an event that has taken on quasi-religious overtones as experienced at the Café de la Paix.
It isn't possible to eat badly in Poperinge, and an establishment the caliber of Flou's (described previously) ups the ante.
I've yet to dine at Pegasus on Guido Gezellestraat, although it might be a bit too much gourmet-oriented for me.
Finally, again in 2017, 't Hommelhof in Watou proved elusive. Even in Europe there are times when it would be handy to have a car, if impossible to find someone sober enough to drive it.
But all things considered, Café de la Paix on the Grote Markt remains the place I prefer for characteristic regional cuisine and an extensive beer selection. Top of the line steaks; escargot to die for; friendly service; and a convivial atmosphere not at all overstuffed.
There's a bit more about the 2014 meal at Café de la Paix in this previously published column.
ON THE AVENUES with THE BEER BEAT: Beef Steak and Porter always made good belly mortar, but did America’s “top” steakhouses get the memo?
In 2017, the beer selection was shuffled about. Luc appeared for a brief chat, introducing us to the proud proprietor, the mother of the winning hop queen candidate. Almost palpably, Poperinge was deescalating.
Diana and I would be staying another two days, but our friends were set to depart on Monday morning. The story will continue.
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Previously:
2014 Euro Reunion Tour, Day 12.5: The story of hops in parade format.
The 2017 Poperinge Hop Parade, Part One: One must pour the proper foundation for maximum parade enjoyment.
Hops are a boy's best friend.
Highlights of the 2005 journey to Belgium and the Netherlands.
The 2017 Poperinge Hop Parade, Part One: One must pour the proper foundation for maximum parade enjoyment.
Every third year in Poperinge, the hop parade brings the fest to a close, and in a part of the world where rain is a constant throughout the year, citizenry and visitors seek nothing more than a clear day to suit the pageantry.
In 2017, the Keikoppen (cobble-heads, a nickname for residents of the city) got ample blue skies, sun and suitable autumn temperatures. It rained on Saturday and Monday, but not Sunday, at least during daylight hours.
We five occupants of the apartment above the travel agency had gone shopping on Saturday afternoon and diligently gathered breakfast supplies to augment the Westvleteren ales already on hand.
Light exercise was merited. We were eager to introduce Roy to the exemplary town park, which didn't exist the first time I visited Poperinge in 1998.
Town Park Frimout Poperinge
The town park, named after Viscount Dirk Frimout (first Belgian in space ), forms the green lung in the center of Poperinge. The park (3 hectares) is divided into three zones: a demonstration zone with gardens , an ecological zone and a recreational zone. You can take a nice walk in the park. There is a play zone for children in the beginning of the park. In spring and summer the park is the setting for many performances and outdoor events.
The park is a relaxing way to prepare for a grueling fest day.
Back at the Grote Markt, there were leftover tokens from the previous day's visit to the "Lekker Westhoeks" beer sampling. As we sipped again on Sunday, the visiting band from Wolnzach in Bavaria serenaded the denizens of nearby sidewalk cafes.
The hop queen contest had been decided, but the campaign materials remained posted throughout Poperinge.
Poperinge's Hop Museum alone would be reason enough to visit the city. It's the place where I first met my friend Luc almost 20 years ago, and it has been steadily upgraded over the intervening years.
Poperinge's Hop Museum is located in the old "Stadsschaal" or Municipal Scales. An informative audio tour guides you through four floors of history and culture, all the way from the impressive loft to the concluding ground floor. On your way down, local characters like "The Bagger" and "The Nose" will guide you along the four seasons of the hop, historic documents, photographs, scale models and audiovisuals illustrate both the story of this unique building and that of local hop growing, its past and present.
The museum is informative to the point of exhaustion. I snapped only these photos, having gone berserk on our last visit in 2014.
It bears reminding those beer enthusiasts who've never been to Poperinge that you can stay there for days during non-fest times and find plenty to do, especially with a bicycle, using the city as a base and taking day rides. Consider the hop fields; at least five breweries within easy cycling distance (and France not far away); great eateries and local food producers; and history everywhere you look.
Back at the hop museum, out front in the courtyard were humans, hops and local ale made with local hops -- named for the Keikoppen, and brewed by De Plukker, an organic hop farm and organic brewery just outside of town. It is a pale ale along the lines of the famous Hommelbier, and absolutely delicious.
We noticed several examples of construction along the streets radiating to the Grote Markt. The gaps are like missing teeth, but soon the new building will appear. Usually they're in harmony with the older ones around it.
There were few disappointments on the trip, but missing this exhibit was one of them. We'd have had time on Sunday, but I misread the sign, and hours didn't resume until the following weekend.
Expo "Vive Labeur - China in Poperinge 1917 - 2017"
The first Chinese labourers arrive in Poperinge during the summer of 1917. They work for the CLC, Chinese Labour Corps, a working corps of the British Army. The Chinese labourers stay until 1920. They live in separate camps and they maintain their own rituals. The exhibition “Vive Labeur – Hail to the work” tells the story of the Chinese during WWI. Was it hard labour? How did they socialize with the local people? Did they celebrate Chinese New Year? The WWI Chinese story inspires contemporary artists. Two famous Belgian photographers, Stephan Vanfleteren and Sanne Dewilde go back to the roots of the Chinese labourers. They explore the China region where they came from. This results in a fascinating photographic account. Reporter Lieselotte Vandamme stays in the Poperinge region and tries to find the legacy of the Chinese labourers. She presents a documentary film.
By now it was time to gear up for the parade, so we returned to Ieperstraat for lunch at the Poussecafe and the prime watching spot. I'll pick up the story in the next installment.
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Previously:
TRAVEL PRELUDES: The Talbot House in Poperinge, where the ghosts congregate.
2014 Euro Reunion Tour, Day 12: Is the hop plant satanic?
2014 Euro Reunion Tour, Day 10: Time again for the hop festival in Poperinge.
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