Showing posts with label gruit beer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gruit beer. Show all posts

Saturday, November 04, 2017

THE BEER BEAT: Martin Luther, gruit, hops, brewer's droop and Industrial Disease.




"Two men say they're Jesus one of them must be wrong."

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It's one of my favorite songs of 1982, but we'll get back to that in just a moment. You probably saw the NPR story of October 31 on the occasion of the 500th anniversary of Martin Luther's presumed posting of the 95 theses on his church door in Wittenberg.

On this day 500 years ago, an obscure Saxon monk launched a protest movement against the Catholic Church that would transform Europe. Martin Luther's Protestant Reformation changed not just the way Europeans lived, fought, worshipped, worked and created art but also how they ate and drank. For among the things it impacted was a drink beloved throughout the world and especially in Luther's native Germany: beer.

Actually no one knows for sure if Luther's theses were revealed via a door on October 31, 1517, or whether he posted them in such a manner at all, but let's not quibble over details.

As relayed by NPR, among other purely secular motivations of the Protestant Reformation (the "success" of which had far more to do with politics than theology) was the opportunity to hoist a middle finger to the Catholic Church's monopoly on gruit, then the flavoring agent of choice in brewing.

In the 16th century, the Catholic Church had a stranglehold on beer production, since it held the monopoly on gruit — the mixture of herbs and botanicals (sweet gale, mug wort, yarrow, ground ivy, heather, rosemary, juniper berries, ginger, cinnamon) used to flavor and preserve beer. Hops, however, were not taxed.

At the time, hops had a bad reputation.

"The church didn't like hops," says William Bostwick, the beer critic for The Wall Street Journal and author of The Brewer's Tale: A History of the World According to Beer. "One reason was that the 12th century German mystic and abbess Hildegard had pronounced that hops were not very good for you, because they 'make the soul of a man sad and weigh down his inner organs.' So, if you were a Protestant brewer and wanted to thumb your nose at Catholicism, you used hops instead of herbs."

Sidestepping the reliability of Bostwick as a beer historian (it may be best not to mention Bostwick's name to British beer writer Martyn Cornell), I couldn't help thinking about Stephen Harrod Buhner while reading the NPR story.

Think of Buhner as the Garrett Oliver of mystic herbal brewing. One of his books is Sacred and Herbal Healing Beers: The Secrets of Ancient Fermentation (1998), which I dimly recall being recommended to me by one of the (shall we say) more left-leaning of homebrewing club members at the time.

A few years ago, my friend Karen pointed me to Buhner's article about gruit vs. hops. Consider it a more detailed treatment of what Bostwick told NPR.

The Fall of Gruit and the Rise of Brewer's Droop, by Stephen Harrod Buhner (2003)

... To understand why hops replaced gruit it is important keep in mind the properties of gruit ale: it is highly intoxicating and aphrodisiacal when consumed in sufficient quantity. Gruit ale stimulates the mind, creates euphoria and enhances sexual drive. Hopped ale is quite different. Contemporary scientific research has conclusively demonstrated that hops contains large quantities of estrogenic and soporific compounds. In fact hops has been used for many thousands of years in traditional medical practice as a natural estrogen replacement therapy and to help insomniacs sleep. The high level of plant estrogens in hops makes hopped beer an extremely good drink for women in menopause but also makes it a very bad drink for men. Consumption by men of large levels of estrogenic compounds can lead to erection problems later in life. In fact, there is a well-known condition in England called Brewer's Droop which is regularly contracted by bartenders and brewers after years of exposure to hopped beers and ales.

Whether it's Buhner's or Bostwick's research, I've no idea whether any of this is entirely reputable. I always thought it was the alcohol itself that contributes to erectile dysfunction, but strict veracity isn't my point.

Rather, it's the phrase "brewer's droop" itself, and joyfully recalling how it was used by Dire Straits in the song.

Doctor Parkinson declared 'I'm not surprised to see you here
You've got smokers cough from smoking, brewer's droop from drinking beer
I don't know how you came to get the Betty Davis knees
But worst of all young man you've got Industrial Disease

Brewer's droop apparently has a double meaning, as it was the name of a band, too. Why was the name Parkinson used? I'm not sure, but Cecil Parkinson was one of Maggie Thatcher's favorites at the time of the album's incubation.

Downfall of Margaret Thatcher's number one guy Cecil Parkinson; HE WAS the golden boy of the Conservative Party in the early Eighties, by Neil Clark (Express)

A favourite of prime minister Margaret Thatcher, Cecil Parkinson had as Tory chairman masterminded the landslide election victory over Labour in 1983. Handsome, charming and highly ambitious, he was the man who - as newly released private papers suggest - Mrs Thatcher wanted to anoint as her successor.

Unfortunately, Parkinson's mistress turned up pregnant, and his star abruptly fell. No drooper, he -- probably a wine drinker, and not Horace Rumpole's Chateau de Thames Embankment, either.

In closing, let's recall Luther's famous quote about beer and sin ... which he probably never said.

Whatever.

Whoever drinks beer, he is quick to sleep; whoever sleeps long, does not sin; whoever does not sin, enters Heaven! Thus, let us drink beer!

Saturday, September 23, 2017

TRAVEL PRELUDES: Finally, a chance to visit the Jopenkerk -- a Haarlem brewery in a church, and with gruit beer.


In far-off olden times, a "Jopen" in Haarlem was a wooden barrel of roughly 30 American gallons, used to transport beer from burgeoning riverside breweries to customers throughout the city.

The ensuing ale barrel of an idea for what eventually became today's Jopen Bier stretches back all the way to the 15th century, when Jopens were filled with Koyt, Haarlem's municipally-regulated gruit beer.

To give the beer a better flavour and extend its shelf life, gruit is added to it. This is a herb mixture with sweet gale as its main ingredient. When it comes to trading and distribution, landlords tax the brewers, and they are forced to buy their gruit from specific suppliers. Haarlem city council sets up a large number of regulations and statutes that describe the beer production process down to the finest details. In 1407, Koyt is brewed in Haarlem in accordance with the brewing statute (recipe prescribed by the council). Its consistent quality makes Haarlem gruit beer famous far beyond national borders. During the 15th century, Koyt is the most popular beer in Antwerp.

I'm trying to imagine New Albany's city council designing (and enforcing) beer recipes. Changing times, and all that.

More than 500 years later, a momentous event occurred in the history of Haarlem, both city and beer, because I went there for the very first time. Perhaps not coincidentally, five years later a serious effort began to reclaim Haarlem's lost brewing heritage.

1992 -- Haarlem Beer Society

Haarlem council posts a newspaper request for ideas to commemorate the city’s 750-year anniversary in 1995. Ideas related to beer are suggested. After all, the city along the Spaarne River developed around the production and sale of its own beer. The Haarlem Beer Society is established in 1992 with the aim of making traditional Haarlem beer available once again. Walter Schelfhout combs the city archives for old council recipes and comes up with two, dating back to 1407 and 1501. Council archaeologist Maarten Poldermans and Haarlem historian Loes Vroom verify the authenticity of the recipes and Leuven University recreates the beer.

By 1996, the present Jopen company had been formed to brew beer in Haarlem on a regular basis, although at first it functioned strictly as a contract brewer. In 2005, after years of negotiation, Jopen purchased the Jacobskerk, and in 2010, the renovated church opened for business as the Jopenkerk brewpub.

Since then, in a growth arc familiar to all American craft beer lovers, increased demand has led to the construction of a production brewery in the Waarderpolder industrial park near Haarlem. The downtown brewery is the smaller batch showpiece, and the beers for distribution are brewed at Waarderpolder.

In 2015 came yet another Jopen installation, a distillery/cafe in Hoopddorf, a town a few miles south of Haarlem -- and yes, it's also located inside a former church.

I like their style.

Seeing as my most recent stay in Haarlem came in 2008, apparently I've missed all the fun times at Jopen. On the other hand, having shot the entrepreneurial rapids with NABC since just before Jopen's inception, it actually may be the case that the grandest times for customers have been the most stressful for the brewing company's owners.

That's often the way it works.

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As this post it published, it is Saturday, the last full day of our trip. I'm sure we've had the chance to visit the Jopenkerk by now.

Truthfully, for at least the past two decades -- probably closer to 30 years -- I've almost never seen a church gone-out-of-business without pondering what a fine brewery it would make.

It's contagious.

Beer enthusiast or not, it’d be hard for anyone to argue that this isn’t one of the most stunning breweries, with its gorgeous and colorful interior, earning Jopenkerk the honorable title of “Best Looking Bar in the Netherlands” in 2013.

I've always like Jopen's ales precisely because they weren't hop bombs. Nowadays, I'm sure some of them are, but I'm a sucker for historical recreations like Koyt and Adriaan, and it is likely those are the ones I've been drinking.

In 2008, the Jopenkerk brewpub was a cordoned-off building site. Now, exciting new chapters of Haarlem's brewing history are being written. It's too bad Michael "Beer Hunter" Jackson wasn't around to help edit them. He'd have enjoyed the beer-in-church thing, I think.