Monday, February 12, 2007

A marvelous case for “adaptive re-use” (mushy peas division – last orders).

When it comes to sagas like this one, I’ve always been torn.



It is simply indisputable that generations of hungry New Albanians have revered the South Side Inn as a veritable Mecca of the steam table, where heaping mounds of gristle, starch and carbohydrates could be consumed for precious little out of pocket.

At the same time, such “traditional” bills of fare hold slight interest for me, and when they do, I hope for a better grade of comfort food than South Side has offered, at least lately. The last time I ate there some eight or nine years ago, it was colossally underwhelming, with every item I tasted overcooked, bland, fatty, or all three.

In the midst of a long-term slide, the South Side Inn changed hands last July. According to the Tribune:

Court records show Joe Peevor is paying $150,000 to take over the South Side Inn; current owners Mark Troub and Jeannie Burchfield bought the restaurant eight years ago.

At the time, and in jest, I expressed the hope that Peevor, an Englishman, would convert the South Side into a British-style pub, complete with lumpy gravy, eel pie, mystery cutlets, fish and chips, a curry dish or two, and hand-pumped “real ale” to make it all worthwhile.

But seriously, no bad Limey food jokes here; I’ve had some pretty good pub grub in the UK, and perhaps there’d even be hope for that stray haggis. It goes quit well with Brown Ale.

On January 11, the Courier-Journal reported that the South Side had closed, and its status was uncertain.

When the South Side will reopen hasn't been decided, said Joe Peevor, who bought the restaurant in July with partner Angela Hawley.

Peevor, who is from England, said he closed on Dec. 29 because a condition for getting a long-term visa was that the business have an annual cash flow of $50,000 and it isn't generating that much.


Speaking of seafood, something always seemed slightly fishy about a foreign national supposedly doing good business in Florida before abruptly determining that a declining cafeteria in New Albany, Indiana with a rapidly aging core clientele was a better deal.

Now we’re told that yet another restaurant offering a strikingly similar menu will be opening five blocks away from the moribund South Side at 223 W. 5th -- the former Pigasus/Backwoods BBQ location:

Lancaster’s Cafe coming to downtown New Albany; Grandson of Tommy Lancaster leases former Pigasus building on West Fifth, by Eric Scott Campbell (Tribune).

“It’s set up exactly the way I want for what I want to do, cafeteria-style,” (Troy) Lancaster said. “Unless you want fast food, you’re very limited to what you can have in New Albany anymore.

Leaving aside whether Mr. Lancaster has ever noticed the existence of La Rosita’s (Mexican), Federal Hill (Italian) and Bistro New Albany (bistro fare) in downtown New Albany, and the opening later this week of Treet’s, the city’s first downtown bakery in quite a while, it’s naturally good to see a vacant building come back into play.

Whether we need more mashed potatoes and roast beef is another question.

And so, getting back to the South Side Inn, Peevor’s misfortune might very well be another owner’s ultimate gain. With Scribner Place and the YMCA being built only yards away, now would seem an ideal time for an entrepreneur with vision to break with decades of insanely conservative New Albany tradition and offer – gasp – something approximating healthy cuisine where the fried chicken used to drip onto newspapers and the lard-encrusted and sugar-laden pies cooled on window sills.

Dare we hope for a two- or three-way and a few progressive pints? Best hurry, lest either antiques or furniture starts being sold there.

13 comments:

edward parish said...

With no disrespect to the late Jack Faith and others, but I never did get the Southside secret to success, other than have lots of cafeteria style food at an affordable price and they will come. Times have changed and for the most part,the cafeteria generation is coming to a close. Yes, I like that style of food every now and then, but how about switching up the menu.

I did not live here when the said property was a bar, but have heard many stories, both good and bad. The property is an ideal location, for someone to make a real statement in the way that NA is going to be in ten years.

For the most recent owners, to me it was a real estate speculation for profit from day one.

NABC Downtown?

G Coyle said...

As nasty as the South Side food was, I'll miss it. That sort of Cafeteria food is really a period piece. Well, we still have the Colonnade in Louisville.

Christopher D said...

I must find a new source of bloated overcooked, flavorless macaroni and cheese!
As nasty as it was, there was times I craved it like I was a crack feind with out a fix!

Greyhound Momma said...

Sorry, g.coyle, but, NO, we don't still have the Colonnade. It's been closed since 06/30/2006.

The New Albanian said...

I posted this story at Robin Garr's Louisville Restaurants Forum, hoping to entice some interest from Louisville.

In an odd yet significant way, matters like the South Side's future (if any) highlight the parameters of the current juncture in New Albany. We can revert to cheap cafeteria food, or take a step forward.

Ed, I'd love to. I'll be out today searching for Prince Madoc's buried treasure. If I can't find it, all bets probably are off ...

Iamhoosier said...

NA,
If you did not spend so much time rabble rousing on the blogs, you could afford to. And if I did not spend so much time adding my 2 cents, I could afford to invest with you!

na girl said...

I talked to a woman a while back who told me that her mother owns the Southside building and that it has been leased to the Southside as long as she can remember. She says that the building was not owned by the Faiths. I don't know how accurate this is but I notice the sign doesn't mention anything about the building being for sale.

knighttrain said...

The secret was that the southside catered to the tastes of the public at that time. If you are not about making money, then you can cater to your own tastes. I ate there and liked most of the food. JFaith used to meet the truck farmers early in the morning to buy the veggies. Secondly it was cheap compared to other places of the day and fast.
BTW-- he did lease the buliding and for the first 40 years it was only 400 per month. During the 1990's the daily gross was over 3000k per day----so there was no problem then. But he saw the handwriting on the wall and knew it was time to get out---that is why he was successful.

John Alton said...

How about a Rich O's South Roger? With NABC beers, and a cafeteria style Italian style dining area serving pizza, lasagna, stromboli...etc. Could even throw on some overcooked un-seasoned macaroni & cheese for sake of tradition! In honor of Southside, I will have a burned hamburger...w/grissle included, some KRAFT Mac & Cheese (dry bland style), and some overcooked green beans w/o seasoning for my dinner tonight. (Actually that may be true..lol!)

G Coyle said...

I would like to clarify my comment to say I meant "nasty food" in only the best way. I once drove all the way from Chicago for some of those overcooked tasteless green beans. Southside exemplified home style cooking locally...twill be missed. That would be a good corner for a Deli/market just to throw in my two cents.

Jeff Gillenwater said...

I wasn't aware there was such a thing as overcooked green beans. They just didn't put enough bacon fat and sugar in with them lately.

As much as I'd like more variety, I'd love to have an honest to goodness southern cooking outlet somewhere close by. There used to be some south in the South Side.

A Democrat in Floyd County said...

Yes, I will miss the Southside's liver and onions day...people drove from all over to get their weekly dose. Folks lined outside the door.

There still are good cafeterias in the Louisville area. The Picadilly is a national firm and there are two out in the East End. The best thing there is something for everyone; senior citizens discounts; healthy plates; and last of all -- REAL mashed potatos.

Congrats to Troy Lancaster for taking a chance on downtown New Albany. We'll be pulling for you. We enjoy Tommy's buffet sometimes on Friday nite, also.

jbarthold said...

No mention has mentioned Southside's famed fish. It was truely the culinary cornerstone for many. Wed. and Fri. were days we flocked for finny fare. Memories of heaping helpings of fish swimming in a puddle of tarter trigger salivation. For me, and the many fish fans, we are thunderstruck at Southside's passing. Adieu mon amie